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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.